Pollo Papantla From Zarela Martínez

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Pollo Papantla From Zarela Martínez

ON a visit to Papantla, a small city in Veracruz, Mexico, Zarela Martínez visited a club of retired women, each 65 or older, or what the locals call “people of the third age,” she said. The women kept local traditions in cooking, dancing and needlework alive, and introduced them to outsiders.
Ms. Martínez, the New York restaurateur and cookbook author, was offered a plate of chicken legs browned and simmered in a glossy sauce flavored with orange juice, a bit of vinegar, garlic, chilies and vanilla.
“I had never had vanilla in a savory setting,” More ...

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