Sparks of Flavor Stand in for Heat
By MARK BITTMAN
The New York Times
BACK in the early ’80s, when I had just begun to write about cooking, I used to hang around in the kitchen of a man named Peter Chang. Mr. Chang ran a one-man-show of a Chinese restaurant in New Haven, and was kind and patient enough to teach me some of what he knew.
Mr. Chang’s efficiency was questionable: he’d start grinding the meat and shredding the cabbage when someone ordered dumplings, and often began a batch of stock only when the first patron asked for hot-and-sour soup. More ...