Old-Fashioned Cheesecake

Old-Fashioned Cheesecake Without All The Trappings
By Amy Scattergood

Whether you fill it with ricotta, farmer or goat cheese, cheese curd, mascarpone or cream cheese, the smooth taste is iconic.

THE HAPPY childhood goes like this: My mother unwraps the silver boxes of cream cheese as if they are presents. She beats the soft cheese -- the crack of eggs, a dust-storm of sugar -- into pale snowbanks in the bowl while she lets me crush the graham crackers with a hammer. I sneak a few butter-laced crumbs and, later, watch the cooling cheesecake with that wistful ache children can have about certain foods. Such moments, repeated through the years, transform simple favorites into profound emblems. More ...

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