A Little Jiggle From Down South

A Little Jiggle From Down South
Jelled Foods Are Old And New Again

Molecular gastronomists, the new breed of chefs who think they suddenly discovered that cooking is chemistry, are obsessed with jellies (along with foams and anything that can be flash-frozen in liquid nitrogen). While these guys pat themselves on the back for discovering how to turn liquids into solids via seaweed extracts such as agar-agar and carrageenan, they might want to take a look at "Cotton Country Cooking," a 1972 book from Decatur, Ala., or any other Southern Junior League cookbook. MORE


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